Lovin the pie!

Had a good set of days off, started on Saturday with a night out watching the Super Furrys, then a slow Sunday watching the Grand Prix. This was the sort of race that reminds me why I bother watching it, plenty of action with dreams being made and shattered. It would have been easy for Jenson Button to never drive in F1 again, for his previously promising career to end with one win and a load of shit decisions about which team to move to at which time. Instead 12 months later he is World Champion. Lots of people will say its because of the car etc, but as with most things its the way you take your chances available to you that makes the difference in life.

I went back up to the Pie shop on Monday to finish off the Love Pie saga, I did the problem this time. It was proper cold and windy up there, which was fortunate as I had to wait for the top holds to dry out. I did it with the stack in the pocket throwing with my right to a tiny crimp, so my fingers must be getting stronger.

This second shot shows where I managed to fall off last week! On Tuesday I had work to do so went to the Indy and set some problems. Wednesday was good went out with James and managed a circuit up the Ogwen Valley down the Llanberis Pass, had a session at the RAC to warm up, then a quick go at my big project, I managed to do the 1st crux again, seems as though I might have this bit wired now. Couldn't pull on to the second crux anymore, I guess that is to be expected after a summer of debauchery. Then I had a handful of goes at Pools of Bethesda. Finally I am starting to be able to get near the pocket with the toe hook in place, I will be so happy if one day I can do this. I have never hammered the move but I have had a couple of sessions every season to see what goes on. It seems that a leap in power, strength or technique has occurred. After this I went back up the hillside to start trying Humble Pie. This is a ten move extension to Love Pie, it was really nice to be out in the hills hanging around stoned and watching clouds bubbling into Cyrn Las as it went dark.

I got all reminiscent, as I spent a long time here eight-ish years ago working Pythagoras, suddenly the hassle of life seemed miles below me, nothing really mattered. The futility of bouldering was summed up by the very fact that so soon after completing Love Pie I was back. trying to extend it. It was great sitting round under the roof working out the moves, I remembered just how much I enjoy ferreting around the hillside. I slapped around till it went dark and then wandered down to have a beer and hang round. It was great.

Nearly...

Went up the hillside on Tuesday, I wanted to try The Lotus again. I tend to go up and have a go once every couple of years, I managed to remember my sequence from the last visit. Each individual move was easy even though it was in terrible conditions. I thought for a little while I might manage to link it, but alas failed. This time though Chris is also keen so hopefully I wont leave it for 2 years before getting back up there. After this we wandered down to the Pie Shop and I managed to get both hands on the top of Love Pie and still fall off. Foolish. This is a ten year affair with this problem, during which time it has turned from a horrendous 8a, into (in some peoples opinion) a steady 7c. I remember reading about the first ascent in an old Climber magazine when I was a student in Canterbury. It was the same issue that had a photo of the first ascent of Crucial Times, so that ages it a bit. Was meant to get up early and go back up before work today, but Friday night got in the way. Other than this I have stopped drinking midweek and started to climb a lot more again which is nice. The conditions are improving and everything is nearly there.

More of the same

Went out to the Pass on Thursday dragged Jack into the new found easy trad psyche. We decided that it was amazing to go climbing without failing. That's five days out and constant success, amazing in five days of hard bouldering I would be lucky to get to the top once. Its nice to be chilling on belays and stuff. Unfortunately I was talked into a Bus Stop session on Sunday, after a mega session to mark the end of the summer any physical activity was very foolish, followed Ollie up Fools gold which seems to be turning into a polished hand jamming crack I am sure it was a fingertip crimpy thing before. Oh well the whole place is a pile and whoever spent time energy and money on those bolted routes behind fools gold needs a lobotomy.

Then the rain came...

Just been outside having a smoke, its raining and looks grim, after 12 days of dry its amazing to see how quickly you take it for granted. Now I can see endless days of grey and hanging round in a damp cave or a dripping mill. Welcome to the winter.

Big Smile

Finnally managed to link up The Big Smile on Wednesday, it was preety cool in the wind so conditions were OK. Managed to do it 2nd try after doing the moves as a warm up. This was good as in the past 3 years I have probably had 6 visits at least, I think on the 2nd session I fell close to the end. Since then its rain, snow, seepage and ice that conspired against me. After this went to the roadside and had a slow session watching Caff on Diesel Power, and trying there and back on the Scoop traverse. My wrist was sore so ended up going to Tremadog the following day, did Grim Wall direct which was very nice, think I may have done it before but can't remember. In fact hanging around in the sun placing gear was so enjoyable that the following day I went down the Pass to the Grochan. First off was Brant Direct then seconded up Stroll On. We then proceded to get a strool on and keep going through till Monday morning. We paid a breif visit to the RAC boulders and played trying to palm out holds on the slab and push yourself upwards, various running jumps etc. All in all really good days off producing many big smiles...

Gutted

Well, just like Dyer said would happen Beatitudes Kiss got a repeat using a dirty razor edge just above the pinch. Boo hiss I say, ignore the best hold in Wales for some dirt, bah. Never mind though. Good effort to Jordan for going up and doing all the problems in a day, apart from the sitter to Cruiser Weight; reachy? No just dead hard guv, honest! And well done for putting up with our drunken directions on friday night without hanging up.

Out and About

Been out and about a bit the last few weeks, went to the new bloc in Beddgelert woods a few times. This is an example of Pantons brave new world of link ups. This time we have all be instructed how the naming system works and are in the process of filling it up with as many variations as possible. Did the first ascent of a couple of good up lines and have been all over the traverses in an attempt to get a bit fitter. The best thing I have done is the stand start to the left of the arete, which became Water. This is highly morpho but very cool, pulling on with a foot at waist level and wide apart pinchy undercuts before rocking into the bulge and standing up to the top. Si did attempt to tell me I couldn't start there as it was too dependent on reaching that high with a foot. I did it anyway, I don't really see any reason to start artificially lower in order to make it the same for others, after all its not like I am using holds out of reach for my hands just a high foothold. Besides there is still the sitter to be linked in although i think this will probably change the whole sequence and the cool rockover will be defunct.

Here is a link to the pages, with some photos of Water.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=420


I have left the Cromlech alone at the moment as a summer of changeable weather seems to have meant most of my sessions have been up there. I fell of the end of the Scoop traverse there and back, and Sub Society over the last few weeks. Think this is a good sign for the coming winter as Sub Society is one of those problems I never expect to ever do as it is too crimpy, so i don't try it, this of course is the quickest way to make sure you don't do something!


Here is some footage of Scoop Traverse and The Sting.